money

I wrote in August 2010 (nine years ago!) about a product called the “money-band,” which was a cutting-edge elastic fastener (OK—household rubber band) marketed for the use of replacing the traditional bi or trifold wallet. I was enamored at the time by the idea of minimalism—and I guess I still am, though that word no longer crosses my mind¹—and it was enlightening for me to see an object that so demonstrably instantiated that “Hey—there are other ways to go about this 78.5-year trek. You’ve been doing it all wrong. Wake up.”

The money-band in particular was compelling for two reasons:

1. It was almost nothing—insubstantial, a relative filament—yet it served the same function as a standard wallet, which is to hold identification and money. Wallets can be elaborate. This was not. It blared the idea of doing the same (or more, or better) with less.
2. It was an evidential case of form governing function. Being so limited, it demanded a reassessment of what it meant to be a “wallet”—boundaries, working parameters, function—and from the there, it could only take shape as a more honed tool.

To elaborate some on that second point, my original money-band held three items: a debit card, my driver’s license, and around $20 in cash. That’s all. It could have held more, but not much more, and what else did I need? If I’d be able to navigate my way through 24 hours with nothing else on me, I was set. This was how I defined its core function. And I could do that with ID and cash. Common wallet-dwellers like receipts, rewards cards, photographs, and change—even at the time, in 2010—were superfluous and have since been obsolesced by digital movements of the past decade. The modern phone holds all of those items, and more. Which means: The bare-bones wallet is even more pertinent today. It was forward-thinking. It still probably is. Constraint can often force coherency, and paring down the wallet was invaluable exercise in critical thought that I still reach back to today.

Progression

I ditched the money-band in 2012 (after my stock of four overstretched) for a pair of standard, size #64 rubber bands chained together (how-to here). $7—the then going price—was exorbitant for a set of money-bands, and I had a full box of #64s idling in my filing cabinet. The chained RBs functioned almost as well. This wallet was finicky, though, with the two bands flopping every whichaway as I unfastened it. It was also more bulky and unsightly. Streamlined it was not. I used v2.0 for about five years too long, then one day became fed up with the two-strap system and sought out a single-band replacement, akin to the money-band. I landed on Alliance Pale Crepe Gold, size #82, and it’s a delight.

officedepot.com

These bands supersede the money-band in all ways I consider important. They retain their elasticity longer, the color is agreeably neutral, and the dimensions are about perfect, for me a least. If you carry a lot more in your wallet, you may need to size up in diameter.

The other functional change I made was in the way I carry cash. I previously wrapped my ~$20 in half around my cards. This was a flawed approach because it meant that I had to futz around with the cash each time I wanted to access my debit or credit card to pay for anything. And I used my cards to pay for virtually everything. So: The cash was in the way. It was a regular obstruction.

After realizing this, I folded my cash in half, twice (i.e., in fourth) (using this paper folder, which I adore) and stored it sandwiched between my cards. It was now out of the way, but still available, and the wallet became considerably smoother to operate. Despite being ostensibly simple, there is minutiae to this thing!

Contents-wise, 2010 vs. 2019:

2010

• debit card
• driver’s license
• less than $20 in cash

2019

• credit card
• driver’s license
• library card
• ~$20 in cash

The inclusion of a library card serves as a personal subliminal reminder to continually check out books, and read. I end up seeing it almost every day, and even though this doesn’t register mindfully (viz., “I am holding my wallet which contains my library card which has eclipsed my peripheral vision…”), I could probably substantiate with data² that I have been reading more since I started carrying my library card, and specifically since I positioned it on the outside of my wallet, in sight. (To clarify: I do not need my library card to check out materials, so I didn’t always carry it on me; in the past, I relied on my driver’s license instead.)

I switched from a debit to credit card for fraud protection. It’s a lot easier to get a fraudulent charge reversed on a credit card than a debit card, which gives me peace of mind when I’m at an unfamiliar gas station or otherwise traveling. Frankly, I assume there’s a possibility my card will be stolen each time I use it. So this decision is a precaution. Paying in cash would be another precaution, but carrying lots of cash is a liability as well.

Going Up: On Credit Cards

I’ve thought about this some, and I will try not to act like I’ve figured anything out (because I haven’t; what follows is conjecture) but here’s my sense: Credit cards levy an invisible tax on consumers. You should probably avoid them. But it may be too late to do so. To expound: Credit cards bind consumers in the following way:

1. Many consumers justify making purchases with credit cards (rather than cash or debit cards) because credit cards yield rewards. (For example, the Amazon card gives 3% cash back on Amazon purchases, other cards benefit travelers, etc.) In essence, consumers believe they are getting better deals by using credit cards over the alternatives. Consumer feel good—shrewd, even—about shopping this way.
2. Merchants are met on the receiving end with interchange fees (let’s say 2% per credit card transaction).
3. Merchants, if they are smart, raise prices across the board, because of interchange fees, by at least 2%. (In other words, they place the fee [and then some] on the consumer.) Consumers loathe surcharges, and it’s confusing to convey separate prices for credit and cash. So, to keep things simple, merchants raise prices all around.
4. Consumers end up paying more (not less) by virtue of widespread credit card use. They get worse deals, even when factoring in rewards.
5. At end: Credit cards virulently inflate the costs of goods and services for all who use them—and for everyone who eschews credit cards, too.

And, it should go without saying: Credit card users also expose themselves to a basket of other fees (e.g., interest fees, penalty fees, annual fees, cash-advance fees, etc.), which again outweigh the benefits the cards provide.

Script Flipped

To play devil’s advocate and not paint credit cards in a totally cynical light: There is overhead to processing cash. A customer counting cash from their wallet and handing it to a cashier who has to make change takes time. I estimate (from standing in line with a stopwatch at supermarkets…) that such exchanges are 10–20 seconds slower than electronic ones, from start to finish. Assuming a cashier makes $15/hour, that implies an initial 4–8¢ processing fee. Later, that exchanged cash may be removed from the cash register, counted again, and transported to a bank. These actions imply further processing fees. But, still, once the money has settled, you’re probably looking at something closer to a flat processing fee than the percentage-based interchange fee. I have to wonder if it ever isn’t cheaper for a merchant to process cash.

For a high-volume merchant, though, every second matters. If electronic payments allow them to process more transactions per minute, then tolerating the interchange fees is a no-brainer. So they are fine with the levy. Convenience attracts customers. And maybe merchants don’t inflate their prices to offset interchange fees.

Answers, Out

I don’t see any obvious ways to empower yourself as a consumer besides either

1. paying with cash (even though there is rarely a discount for paying this way; it’s commendable to opt out of the system) or
2. treating credit cards strictly as cash (and not the plastic casinos they are).

My reluctant advice is to use one credit card with no annual fee that yields either no rewards (if you can find one; they’re rare) or unvaried, negligible cash back. Don’t waste your time juggling multiple cards to earn rewards under specific buying conditions. I did this for a while, and it turns out I was severely misguided: The rewards I earned over a two-plus year stretch would have been nearly the same (and as paltry) if I’d elected to use any one of my three credit cards exclusively (rather than wield them selectively, as I did). So it was a waste of time to deliberate between cards on purchases. And, because each card had annual fees or one-off spending bonuses to chase, I likely justified purchases I otherwise wouldn’t have made to reach those benchmarks. (Which means, rewards included, I spent more than I would have if paying by cash. N.B.: You do not have to overspend by much to cannibalize your rewards entirely.)

I played the game, and failed. Unsurprisingly. The banks know better. Lessons learned: It’s far more productive to improve your income and/or not spend money in the first place. And watch out for anything that appears to be free. It’s too good to be true.

---

¹ My current interests lie in efficiency and plasticity, rather than the more ascetic notion of getting by with almost nothing. (These interests do still beget neuroticism about the objects I consider worth assimilating into my routines.)

² I won’t because it’s not that important and I forget exactly when I made this change to the wallet. I do keep track of what books I’ve read and when, though.

5:09 PM
50 degrees and sunny
(75+ degrees in front of my space heater)
Malvern, PA

Note: I started writing this article like 2 years ago and never finished it and now I’m posting whatever incomplete prose is here. Maybe I’ll complete it later. Enjoy.

Here it is… the “How to Sell Your Stuff on eBay” post. I know you’re stoked for this one… just think of the riches you’ll be swimming in after downing this article.

(Olive Garden – here I come baby…)

I’ll preface this article by saying that I’ve got a fair amount of experience selling stuff on eBay… the oldest transaction on my account is dated Aug-27-98 19:19 (which means I’ve been eBaying for almost 13 year now… damn I’m getting old) and my feedback rating is a perfect 100% from over 500 transactions.

My eBay account was actually my dad’s account at one point then I took it over after he passed, so that 1998 sale may have been his, but I do remember that the first thing I ever sold was a counterfeit royal blue Peanut the Elephant Beanie Baby.

If you were a part of you Beanie Baby craze of the 90’s, then you’d probably remember royal blue Peanut as being the Holy Grail of Beanie Babies. They were valued at like $5,000 back at their peak… pretty insane.

I was lucky enough to have an Uncle Pete that travelled to China for business… more specifically Hong Kong – aka the counterfeit capital of the world. Uncle Pete knew I was a Beanie Baby bonehead back then, so he brought back some of the pellet-filled plushies to add to my collection.

Now you have to picture me being like as stoked as humanly possible when as an 11 year old I’ve got my hands on not just 1 royal blue Peanut, but 3 of them plus other rare Beanies like a wingless Quackers that would be valued together at like $15,000… if they were real.

(I prayed so hard that they might be real… but coming from Hong Kong there was no chance.)

Anyway since we had a surplus of the Peanuts and eBay was this new thing at the time, I told my dad I wanted to try selling one. I knew it was fake, so we worded the item description to say it was a “reproduction,” which didn’t sound nearly as bad as calling it a “counterfeit” or “fake.”

We also offered free shipping because we thought that would help it sell for more. Genius.

So we threw the auction up, and I eagerly awaited some rich, crazed, Beanie Baby buffoons to have a bidding war over the fake toy. I remember it like it was yesterday…

It was such a rush seeing the auction price climb every few hours until it finally settled to a winning bid of over $200. It was just incredible… it required such little work on my part to make that much money at only 11 years old. Sweet victory, man.

Things didn’t work out so well though once the winning bidder said they lived in Nigeria and we’d have to pay like 100 dollars just to ship it there because of our “free shipping” clause.

And then I think somebody else reported us to eBay for selling a fake item. Bummer.

But it was still a great first sell because I learned a lot of the lessons!

1. How to Pick Something to Sell

This step is extremely important. You need to make sure it’s going to be worth your time to sell whatever it is you want to sell, otherwise you’re better off just throwing it out (or donating if you aren’t lazy like me).

First off, make sure you register an account on eBay. You’re then going to want to search for items similar to the one you have in mind that you want to sell. If you find a match, then awesome! You may need to play around with different search terms until you find the same item you’re planning on putting up for auction.

Now you are going to want to filter the search results to show only “completed auctions.” This will show you all the recent auctions that have sold already, so you can see what the final values were. This is a pretty good tell for how much your item will sell for in the marketplace.

My general rule of thumb is that the easier the item is to ship, the lower dollar value I’m willing to accept. If the item is a bitch to ship, then it needs to be worth more.

If you want some specific dollar values… then I usually won’t waste my time listing an item if I don’t think it will sell for at least $10, no matter how simple it is to ship. If an item takes extensive packaging, then I’m expecting it to sell for at least $50, if not $100 or more.

The reason for this is the old adage that time equals money. If I’m selling a $10 baseball card that I plop in a white envelope and throw in the mailbox, then that took me almost no time to ship. That $10 I made really only took me as long as the auction listing took to create.

However if the item you’re selling is big or fragile, you’re going to have to take considerably more time to dedicate to shipping preparation. That time gets factored into your hourly rate, so you need to keep that in mind.

It’s way more profitable to sell a baseball card for $10 than to sell a bicycle for $10 on eBay… you catch my drift?

(I don’t even know how to package a bicycle… but I’m guessing it sucks.)

Of course if you are desperate for cash, then you might choose to ignore these suggestions, but for normal people I’d say these guidelines are pretty solid. Craigslist is really your go-to marketplace for unwieldy items.

2. Take Lots of Pictures

After you’ve picked your sure-fire winner, take lots of pictures of it during a sunny day. “Sunny day” being the important keywords there… sunlight is important for capturing high quality pics with your digital camera.

You don’t even need an expensive camera… a cheapo will work fine if you take the pics in adequate lighting.

A bonus tip to snapping professional looking photos is to use a white bedsheet as the background behind/underneath your item. You don’t want the background behind your item to be your messy room or dirty floor… people WILL notice.

Make sure to get enough angles to encompass a 360 degree view of your item… when you’re selling something online, the buyer can’t touch it and pick it up themselves to inspect, so you need to do that for them.

And if you’re a real go-getter, you could even take a video of the item to complement the still pictures.

3. Describe The Condition Your Item

You can type this in Notepad or TextEdit (or write on a piece of paper if you’re old fashioned like me). Simply describe the CONDITION of the item to the prospective buyer…

… and here’s the key:

Be brutally honest.

I usually downplay the condition of my items because the buyer will not be a happy hombre if your widget has a dent or scratch and you didn’t tell them about it.

However, if the buyer receives your item and it’s in better condition then they were expecting, they will be super stoked and leave you great feedback.

I don’t care if you think you’ll make an extra couple bucks by playing up the condition of your item… it’s not worth it. It’s much better to ere on the side of caution here.

Another key is to be SPECIFIC.

Like when I used to sell Pokemon cards on eBay, here’s an example description I might use:

There are faint scratches on the holographic portion of the card which are visible only in bright light. The corner edges of the back of the card show some wear from play. The card has no bends or creases and is in perfectly acceptable condition for a player, but a collector may seek a card in more mint condition.

Notice how specific I was in grading the card… I didn’t just say it’s in “near-mint” condition. I described it in full detail, and that’s what you should do for all your items.

Act like you know what you’re talking about… pretend to be an expert on your item even if you aren’t.

Again… this goes in hand with taking a bunch of pictures: The online buyer can’t physical touch your items and inspect it for themselves, so you need to be theirs eyes and their ears.

(Pretend you’re selling to Helen Keller or something…)

4. Features of Your Item

You now want to describe the FEATURES of your item (we’ve covered the CONDITION in step 3). You should describe specific features, just like you described the condition very specifically.

Examples of features would include things like size, dimensions, weight, make or model, year it was produced, does it come with its box, color, etc… basically anything that could describe the item aside from its condition.

If you want to go the extra step, you could describe the benefits that go along with the features. For example, let’s say that you’re selling a pair of jeans. A feature would be the brand/company, so let’s say they are Levis 501s. A benefit you could mention is that chicks dig Levi 501s.

5. Package It!

At this point, you’ve basically gotten your item’s listing description completed! You can now package it up so we can give the bidders an accurate shipping estimate.

This is usually the step that throws most people off because they don’t know where to start, but thankfully it’s gotten easier over the years thanks to USPS.

USPS gives away free Priority Mail supplies, so either go to your local post office and pick up some boxes, or you can order them online. If you order online, they’ll deliver straight to your door which is pretty awesome, and you can order as many supplies as you want.

Their free boxes should house most items you’d typically sell on eBay… but you may have to get bigger boxes from a place like Staples on occasion. Or try looking in your attic or garage for old cardboard boxes you don’t need anymore.

I also recommend getting a scale so you can weigh your packages accurately. USPS does offer some flat rate Priority Mail boxes so you don’t need to weigh those, but sometimes you’ll want to use Priority Mail boxes that aren’t flat rate… and you’ll need a scale for those.

I’ve owned this scale for several years now and it does its job.

As far as packaging materials, a tape gun is indispensable. (Hah… get it?)

You might need bubble wrap if you’re shipping fragile items, but forget packaging peanuts… here’s my secret weapon:

Newspaper.

My basic strategy for packaging an item is to stick it in the smallest box it will fit in, then wrap and surround it with crumpled newspaper. You want the item to be really tight and secure… if you shake the package and you feel the item moving around, you need more newspaper!

I always plan for the worst case scenario… I assume that once I ship the package that it’ll probably be thrown half way across a mailroom and smack the concrete floor. I’ve never had a single issue with items being damaged (or lost) during shipping, so I really recommend following my methods.

(If you have bubble wrap or peanuts you could use those instead of newspaper, but I like old newspaper because you can get it for free. Old paper grocery bags work well too.)

And one advanced tip for packaging large items is that you can use the free USPS boxes to fill empty space in large boxes. Like take the USPS box and place it inside the large package to fill space, just like you would fill the space inside a smaller box with newspaper.

I’m sure USPS doesn’t intend for you to use their boxes that way, but I’ve done it in the past and they worked AWESOME. I felt so smart when I figured this method out.

To recap this section:

• Get free shipping boxes from the post office
• Use the smallest sized box that will fit your item
• Fill the empty space in the box really tightly with crumpled up newspaper or grocery bags

But don’t tape it up yet!

Wait to tape until after the auction is over so you can include a hand written note for the winner.

6. Weigh the Package

The package should be pretty much ready to be shipped at this point, so set her on the scale and see what she weighs…

If you’re shipping with a flat rate box, then you don’t need to weigh, but for all other packages here’s my tip for recording the weight:

USPS shipping rates go up in increments for every pound the package weighs. If your package is coming in around at X pounds and 13 to 15 ounces, then I’d round up to the next whole pound. Some weight will be added to the package after you include the invoice and tape up the package, so I like to play things safe and round up.

If you don’t round up and your packages ends up weighing in at the next whole pound, you will have not charged the winning bidder enough for shipping. Also, if you choose to purchase shipping online rather than the post office, you will have not purchased adequate shipping and USPS may mail the package back to you. Which would suck.

So always round up if it’s close… you might even make an extra buck from overcharging on shipping a little bit.

7. Fill Out the Item Listing

Now go to eBay and look for a link at the top to sell an item. I’ll trust you to figure this part out… go through all the fields and complete them. A few key things to take note of:

• Make sure to be very clear in your item description about your shipping methods and times.
• You may or may not want to ship internationally. I personally haven’t had any issues (aside from Peanut), but it might not be worth the hassle for you. The benefit of shipping worldwide is that you will attract more potential buyers and possibly receive a higher winning bid.
• I recommend offering a 7 day money-back guarantee (sans shipping). I think there is ample evidence showing buyers feel more confident when there is a friendly refund policy.
• If you took a lot of pictures and eBay won’t host all of them for free, you could upload them to Flickr and embed a slideshow album into your listing.
• Save your item template after you finish so that next time you have less stuff to fill out!

8. Schedule the Listing

I try to have my auctions end on Sunday evenings around 9 PM EST because on most other nights of the week I feel like people are busy. Sunday night is usually that one time where not much is going on besides huddling up for the new episode of The Simpsons (well, if you’re living in the 90’s).

eBay will let you schedule your listing (for a small fee), so you don’t have to sit around waiting until 9 PM to post your auction (unless you really want to save 10 cents, then go for it). You can either schedule a 7 day auction (Sunday to Sunday) or a 5 day auction (Tuesday to Sunday). I wouldn’t go any less or more than 5 to 7 days aside from extenuating circumstances.

9. Sit Back and Wait

After all your hard work, you deserve a cold beverage. I like room temperature water.

10. Get Paid and Ship

After the auction concludes, the winning bidder will usually know they’re supposed to pay you, but I will often send them a quick message through eBay as a reminder just incase.

Once you get the dough, print a packing receipt from PayPal and write a small thank you message to the buyer on it. Throw that in the package, seal it up with tape, then print the shipping label and bring the package to the post office.

Ta-da.

9:14 PM
Temperate, light rain
Philadelphia, PA
Chariots Of Fire

(play the song… trust me, it will create atmosphere)

Tang has no place in my cupboard.

I have eluded the Ramen noodle diet.

And I did not resort to 1 ply toilet paper.

I have successfully pulled myself from the brink of financial ruin and once again above the poverty line.

(I jest, but seriously, I have more than $4 in my wallet now… more like $20.)

Sorry for the hiatus from the “I’m Broke” saga, but with finals, graduation, and a sheer lack a focus, I failed to produce any content for this website. To make up for 2 weeks of stagnant space, this post will be extra good.

In short, I was able to go from $30 to somewhere around $850 in 2 weeks without a job and only “working” part time hours.

The Secret

There are two ways I consider to go about making or creating money:

1. Indirectly Making Money

2. Directly Making Money

Let me explain the difference between the two…

I regard indirect methods of making money to be tasks that don’t yield money at the current time, but can potentially produce money in the future.

For example, going to school. You learn skills with the thought that those competencies will help you earn money in the future. Putting those skills to use is what I would call directly making money; that is to use what you know in a job type setting.

I am very oriented towards indirectly making money. I like to learn new things, hone my skills, spend time perfecting projects.

None of that stuff puts money into your wallet.

What I realized is that I needed to spend more time of my day applying some of my abilities to earn money.

In other words, I needed to make an active effort to chase after money. Simple as that.

How to do it

Either you (1) use your talents to provide a service or (2) sell a product. Those are the main two options you have.

While I did get a part time job where I will be of service, I haven’t actually started receiving any money from that yet or really delved into the work I will be doing.

Instead, I sold stuff.

What stuff?

Over the past couple months, I’ve realized truly how much stuff I have. It’s really that… just “stuff.”

I’ve got way too many material possessions that I rarely use. I’ve worn 1 pair of jeans the past year. I only have maybe a half dozen video games that I play on rare occasion. I’ve stopped watching television while at my apartment.

80% of the things in my possession haven’t been touched in a blue moon. Upon coming to terms with this reality, I decided to eschew these materials which clutter my life.

It can be difficult to do this, as when you own something for a long time you become psychologically attached to it; it becomes part of your self. Getting rid of something like an old loved stuffed animal could be akin to losing an appendage for some people.

I’ve been pretty much able to climb over that psychological barrier. Some things I won’t be able to get rid of the first time I contemplate whether I really need it or not, but on second or third thought I will come to terms.

Here’s some of the things I’ve said sayonara to the past dozen days…

• Clothes
• Pokemon Cards
• Video Games
• Books
• CDs
• DVDs

I actually haven’t even sold any of my CDs or DVDs yet, but they are sitting in my closet at home waiting to go. I’m probably only about half way done going through my things too, I’m sure I’ll realize there are more items I have that I don’t need. I’ll be busy for at least another week or two cleaning shop.

What material possessions that you own could you live without?

It actually feels great for me to get rid of my old things… it’s a freeing feeling.

I don’t think we realize how controlled by our material possessions that we really can be. It makes me want to live a lot more minimalistic lifestyle.

The things you own do not make you happy.

What makes you happy are the things you do and the people you interact with.

Those things become clearer when you own less substance. The mind has less white noise to cancel out, in essence, and can concentrate more efficiently.

And of course when undergoing this process of minimalizing, if you ever realize you tossed something you cannot live without… just buy a new one.

Stay dry,

Adam

P.S. Drop me a comment and let me know your thoughts on living a minimalistic lifestyle… I’d love to hear some people’s takes on this.

9:54 PM
Humid, Philadelphia, PA
Flyers just went down 3-0 to the Bruins

I have been kindly reminded by a few of my friends that there is another option besides pawning all my stuff away… I could get a job! (Why didn’t I think of that?)

I’m not going to delve into my thoughts about jobs right now, but let’s just say that getting a paying job immediately isn’t feasible at the moment. I’ve still got over a week to go before I am prodded across the plank into the shark tank that is the real world.

Right now the goal is to see how much money I can make with my own resources before I am forced to get a 9 to 5.

The argument could be made that I should be using all this energy into applying for jobs, but to be honest I don’t know what my plans are going to be. I am not mobile at the moment (this means I have no car for the simpletons out there) and I might consider going to grad school next year, so I wouldn’t be able to commit to anything long term.

Anyway, here’s the progress I made today…

Amazon

Sold two more books for a total of $146.85 netted from Amazon. However, I had to buy bubble mailers and then ship the books, so it’s coming out to nearly $5 per book for shipping and handling. Subtract $20 from that total.

It had been a while since I’d sold anything on Amazon and what I forgot is that they only pay out every 2 weeks, not immediately. Not cool Amazon, not cool…

Selling books on Amazon is a terrible business idea at the moment by the way… if you are just selling school books it’s ok but as a full time business, forget about it.

Maybe 5 or 10 years ago it would be worth it, but right now it’s not the way to go. Maybe I’ll write a post about Amazon in the future…

Pokemon T-Shirts

Yesterday I spent a good amount of time redoing my sales page for my Pokemon site and lowered the prices of t-shirts to see if that might elicit some sales.

Sold 4 shirts today alone after not selling a single one for almost 2 weeks. Not bad! Shirts sell for about $9 each. I’m only making back what I paid for the shirts at this point, but as long as I don’t lose money then I’m golden.

Pokemon Cards

A friend is getting back into the TCG and is in need of cards, so he sent me a list of what he was looking for and I actually had a good amount of stuff he needed.

Mailed out the cards and am letting him decide what a fair price is. I don’t really know what they’re worth anymore, but I’ll get something for them. :)

Also finally got loose ends tied up in a deal where me, Ian, and Josh were trying to sell upwards of 10,000 commons and uncommons for 3 cents each. Should finally be getting those cards sold this weekend and we’ll split the money, so that’s going to be at least $100 for me… most of the cards are mine anyway, but I don’t want to take more than an even slice of the pie if they are obliged to it.

Clothes

Sold a couple polos I don’t wear anymore to Plato’s Closet for a total of $5.60.

Had to listen to Justin Beiber while I waited in the store. Not sure if it was worth it.

Video Games

Tried to get in contact with my friend “Video Game Mike” to see if he wanted to buy any of the Sega Saturn or Genesis games. He didn’t pick up so I left a message.

Either way I’ve got two games which I will throw up on eBay tomorrow and should sell for about $75 each.

I also saved some money today by eating lunch and dinner at home… but I did mow the lawn so I’ll count that as work. I love mowing the lawn though, it’s almost therapeutic.

But at this point I still don’t really have any money in hand. Any money I received today was negated by shipping costs and costs of feeding myself (had to buy groceries).

In two weeks I’ll be getting paid out a decent amount by Amazon, in 5 days or so my eBay auctions will end, and in 3 weeks I get paid out by Google. I’ll probably also have at least a part time job by then.

In any case, I’m still to focus my daily efforts on creating money… well after I finish my last final on Friday. Then I’m good to go.

If you have any get rich quick schemes for me, just drop a comment. I’m all ears.

Stay cool,

Adam

3:47 PM Tuesday afternoon
79 degrees and humid
Philadelphia, PA
“The Ocean” (Led Zeppelin) is playing on WMGK

I am one final and one walk of the plank away from being a college graduate. I don’t have any work lined up aside potential part time… and I have a total of $25.50 in my bank account and $4 in my wallet. I also am out of food except for some carrots, a little bit of peanut butter, and some soy milk.

Bills and groceries don’t pay themselves, so I thought this might be a good opportunity to document how I pull myself from nothing to something. I’ve got a few skills, so as seeing I have almost no schoolwork to worry about at this point, it’s the perfect time to put all my abilities into action and stabilize my financial situation.

First thing I’ve been planning to do is sell off all my unneeded possessions. I am going to have a garage sale in a couple weeks to pawn off everything I don’t use or need… DVDs, CDs, clothes, old toys, etc… it feels great to get rid of clutter and simplify my surroundings.

Problem is the yard sale won’t be happening for over 2 weeks, so…

I spent a few hours this afternoon putting my valuable school books up on Amazon and the non-valuable books (worth less than $10 to $15 on Amazon) will be sold to the school bookstore right after I finish typing this post.

My strategy with Amazon listings is to list my books equal to the lowest price in almost all cases, no matter the condition. You don’t want to go lower than the lowest price because people have software set up that will automatically change their prices to be a penny less than yours. If multiple people have this software set up, it screws everyone over as the prices will continually deflate.

In the listing I made sure to highlight that the books are in great condition if they are needed for a class. Even if they are worn, all books are good for class use and I’m guessing that students are going to be the ones buying the books. I was thinking of putting some disclaimer like “help out a poor fellow college student!”… actually maybe I’ll go back and edit that in. People are more likely to buy from someone they identify with.

But anyway… that’s my strategy for selling the books the quickest. I don’t have shipping supplies right now, but I’ll just buy envelopes when the books sell. No use in buying supplies in advance.

Next up will be to get a listing typed on to sell my Sega Saturn on eBay or Craigslist, then to go through my Sega Genesis games and maybe sell some of them as well.

I also have Pokemon t-shirts from my website which haven’t been selling… guess it’s time to do a price cut and see if I can at least make back what I paid for them.

Wish me luck and stay cool,

Adam

Edit 6:28 PM: Sold some books to the bookstore and 1 of my books sold on Amazon already. $53.35 gain but I need to ship the book, so that will probably cost me $5 if I’m thrifty. Not a bad turnaround in only 2.5 hours.

Edit 7:00 PM: Sold another $41.60 book on Amazon…what’s going on??? Am I doing something right for once? It must be the “Help a fellow poor college student!” line…